Hey, Jon here with Prime Studios and today I’m going to be taking apart this Nikon D80. Why? Well two reasons: the first is that I wanted to show you guys what’s inside a modern DSLR, and identify some of the parts for you and also because an ex-girlfriend may have gotten to it with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers and she was not trying to fix it. So, let’s take lemons and make lemonade and tear this thing apart. Alright, so to start off, we have here the mirror box which has been decimated. The actual mirror is this little piece right here, and it’s actually translucent. You can actually see through it, which is kind of interesting. But this whole mirror mechanism is pretty damaged, and actually if you look inside, here, you can see the shutter door, or what’s left of it, that top piece right there, and you can see that the filter on top of the digital sensor is damaged as well. And that’s actually an infrared filter as well as an anti-alias filter is right in there. And that’s actually what’s being scratched up, not the sensor itself. Not to say that the sensor is still any good because it’s not. But yeah… This part right here that I’m taking off is the lens mount. This is the F mount, I believe is what Nikon calls it. That’s their current lens mount and this particular one has this little gear here for older Nikon lenses like the “D” series in order to drive the autofocus. So this camera actually has a small motor down here that’s connected that gear that drives the gears in older lenses to make them autofocus. Basically all I’m going to do is I’m just going to pretty much take apart every single screw on this thing and just rip it apart. And actually before I even start here should take out the battery. There we go… This is a lithium-ion rechargeable battery and ooh…that actually got warm. That’s why you don’t do that. That’s why you don’t put these batteries in a damaged camera like this because it can easily short. And if a lithium-ion battery starts to…if it catches fire there’s pretty much no way to put it out without like a really special kind of chemical fire extinguisher, which… it’s almost impossible to put them out. So just don’t put lithium-Ion batteries into a damaged camera like I just did because it’s nice and warm now. So that’s not good, so… All right here we go. There’s our lens mount… Now interestingly enough, the battery compartment, this door, actually comes off on purpose. This is this designed to come off. There’s little pieces from here but… This is designed to come off so that you can put a battery grip onto here. And there’s actually a storage place on the vertical part of the battery grip that goes into here where you can store this little door. Often times you’ll find little springs like this underneath the lens mount in order to help keep a certain amount of tension on the lenses so that they don’t rattle around. Now you can see why camera repair is so expensive. It’s hard. I think I got all the outer screws. Let’s see… There we go! Alright, so I got the back LCD screen off here, and you can see the…there goes the bottom. So here’s a better look at some of the insides of the camera. You can see there’s a ribbon going from, looks like the main circuit board to the LCD screen. Let’s go ahead and just cut that because I’m not going to using any of these parts…ooh it pulls right out, okay. There we go… All right, so you can see my LCD screen is cracked, obviously, and then it has some more electronics. And here are the buttons, the actual physical buttons that are connected. Let’s see…these push down. So these are little rubber things with this little kind of pusher thing on the back. And those come into contact with these and all that information gets translated back to the board and on the screen here which you can see. Well, that’s the back of the camera, so let’s throw that away. All right… Now one thing I should warn you guys about is that cameras contain these electronic components called capacitors. Which I don’t see the capacitors yet, but I’m guessing they’re most definitely in there. And they’re used for the flash here. The flash will charge up the capacitors from the battery and then release all that electricity from the capacitors very quickly so that it can take a flash picture. The problem with that is that those capacitors can still hold a charge and if you touch them, like say, lay your middle screwdriver across them, you’ll get a nice unpleasant shock that could actually hurt you. So, don’t do that. All right, so here you can see your memory card slot. So this is actually where the SD memory card goes, and then on the side here You can see your USB input, and then I believe that’s the trigger port right there. Oh, that’s the video out. The trigger port’s down here. So that looks like it’s on the other board. There we go… Alright, so there’s one of the boards. Let’s see…this looks like some thermal tape or something here. Now obviously, I’m not treating this well. Ooh… That actually, it says Nikon on it. So that actually might be the processor, but I could be wrong about that. It could be the other board. I can actually see that there are hand-drawn letters on the actual boards. Which must mean during the manufacturing they must just draw those on for some reason, for some kind of reference. You can see here, you can see a J, V, there’s an A… On this other board you can see all these letters. These don’t look quite handwritten, these look stamped. Right there… There we go. Ooh, look at that, look at that. Ooh, that was beautiful. I don’t know if you guys can tell that this is the digital sensor. This is a crop sensor otherwise known as APS-C, and you can see the the front part here, the filter that sits over it’s all scratched up. But if you look carefully, it’s actually the filter that’s scratched. It’s not the sensor itself. The sensor itself is still sitting underneath this piece of glass here. So if you ever wanted to remove your sensor, and you can see my… what’s left of my shutter door right there. Which actually just feels like a extremely thin piece of aluminum. So the sensor sits right right there, the shutter door opens, exposes it to light. Man that is…that is cool. Now interestingly enough, this sensor is actually not made by Nikon, it’s made by Sony and then Nikon takes it and modifies it to their specifications. But originally it comes from Sony. Obviously, I’m very gentle with my equipment. There we go…ah yeah, okay. I don’t know what this one does. Here we can start to see some of the gear mechanisms used in the autofocus system for the…for this little gear here that drives it forward. So, you can even see under there. Let’s see, how much more can I rip out of here? Huh…what the heck is that? Look at that, there’s a little “A” drawn on there. Man they do hand markings all over the inside of this thing. There we go, okay. So here’s inside of the battery compartment. Here’s my connectors for the battery right there. All sorts of things falling out…aww, the little zoom button… Now for those of you who don’t know, on the front of the camera here, this right here is actually an infrared receiver port. This is the autofocus assist light and I already ripped off the back. Where did the back go? Seriously, where’d it go? Oh yeah, threw it over my shoulder. And the other infrared port is right here. There we go… All right, so we got my nice D80 badge here. So here are the rest of my ports. Ooh, whoa, okay. So this big fat thing right here, this is the capacitor. This right here. And there’s a positive and negative on the capacitor. Don’t touch those. It will discharge into you and you…that would be bad. That could definitely hurt you very badly, so I’m going to be very very careful around that capacitor. But here you can see there’s my DC “In” port and then my USB connection right there. That’s a big capacitor… It’s making me a little nervous. Okay, nice and careful… Okay, I got one of the wheel switches here on the front. You can get a good idea of how these actually work. So If you look at the wheel, it’ll actually click. That’s what the inside, on the bottom of those front and back wheels look like when you’re adjusting aperture and shutter speed. So if you look, right there, that’s the motor that drives this gear right here to do the autofocus on the older “D” series lenses. So it’s actually right there, and the gear system for it’s right underneath, to help, I’m sure change the torque and rotation speed and all that kind of stuff. There we go. That’s what I was looking for… there we go. Okay… Okay, so this is the top of the camera, see? It has a whole bunch of stuff. So it has the wheels front and back that I showed you before, right there. And it actually has, it looks like another chip… Now this, what the heck is this? Maybe that is…I think that’s the motor for the release of the flash. Because I don’t think it’s mechanical. Because this little switch right here… right there, is what releases this flash right here to pop up. But it’s not mechanical. It’s linked right here, and then it’s actually linked to this motor. Which to me is a ridiculous over engineering. I mean, why don’t you just make it a physical switch. There’s really no reason not to. You already have springs in the… I mean, why add that? That’s stupid, but that’s how they do it. Okay, all right, so now right here, and right here. This is actually the mode dial There’s my mode dial, and that’s what it’s coming into contact with so the camera knows where the switch is sitting. There we go there. Look at that. That is beautiful. So that is my viewfinder right there. So there’s my focusing screen, right, and then there’s where you look in. And that’s the pentamirror mechanism, and that’s not a mechanism, it’s just mirrors. So the the lens goes on here, the mirror bounces the light from here up into the focusing screen. Which sits on top of here, and then let’s see, how does it bounce it. There, there, there, and then back to your eye. Oh yes, there we go. Yeah, there we go. Oh. Yeah. Oh my God. Oh, oh… Look at that. Oh look at that Actually that looks like a pentaprism. Okay, so there you can see I got my laser pointer pointed at the bottom and it’s coming out there. I can’t quite tell if this is a pentamirror (it is) or pentaprism (no). I guess I’ll have to look it up. Well, it came off very easily. Okay, so this is the actual infrared and anti-alias sensor. And you can…if I move it back and forth you can kind of see a sheen on it, or a coating on it. But that’s the actual glass. You can see that has the actual scratches and… But now I put a little bit of a scratch on the sensor right there, but that’s the actual digital sensor, and it’s very easy to damage. It’s never going to be used again, but it does look kind of cool. But yeah, so when you get your camera converted for infrared, this is what they remove. Well, I hope you guys have enjoyed me decimating my Nikon camera for your entertainment and I hope you learned something. Bye!